I was chatting to Jessica about the commercialiasation of the scene as we know it and she mentioned this book
Subculture: The Meaning of Style is a 1979 book by Dick Hebdige.
The summary on Wikipedia contains a very telling few lines:
The dominant society often sees these groups as radical, leading to fear, skepticism, and anxiety in their response. In some ways, this gives the subculture's resistance more power but only momentarily, because eventually entrepreneurs find a way to commodify the style and music of the subculture. Before long, elements of the subculture are available to the mainstream, i.e. Edwardian jackets of the Teddy boys. In this way, what was once subversive, rebellious, and radical, is now contained. For this reason, it is often the case that the moment when dominant society begins to recognize a subculture is the moment that the resistant power of the subculture begins to die